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This
is a good job for a moderately skilled DIY. It
only takes about three hours to do and will save
you quite a few bucks. Plus you will get the satisfaction
of saying "I did it myself!"
Drum Brakes
What you will need:.
- Wrenches
- Jack
- Jack stands
- Brake spring pliers
- Brake retainer tool
- Screwdriver or pry bar
- Pliers or vise grips
- Hammer
- Large chisel
- White Lithium Grease
- Latex Gloves
- Dust mask
- New brake shoes
Before You Start:
- Follow these instructions carefully. Read
and be sure you understand them before you begin.
- Gather together all of your tools and supplies
before you begin.
- Allow plenty of time to do the job so you
don't have to hurry.
- Remember that these are general instructions.
For more detailed instructions pertaining to
your specific vehicle, consult an appropriate
repair manual.
- Safety is important whenever you're working
around machinery. Beware of hot objects, sharp
instruments and hazardous materials.
- Don't substitute tools unless you're sure
you won't compromise either your safety or the
performance of your vehicle.
- Never work on a vehicle that is only supported
by a jack. Use jack stands to support the vehicle
while you work. Work on a solid, level surface.
Never jack a car up on dirt or grass.
- Do one wheel at a time so you can use the
other wheel as a reference in case you get confused.
- Check for any fluid leaks or cracked brake
lines. Replace them as necessary
CAUTION!!!
Brake linings contain asbestos. Do not use compressed
air or dry brush to clean brake parts. Many brake
parts contain asbestos fibers that, if inhaled,
can cause serious injury. To clean brake parts,
use water soaked rags or a suitable vacuum cleaner
to minimize airborne dust.
Removal:
- Remove about half the brake fluid from the
master cylinder and put it into a sealed container.
Dispose of it properly. Do not reuse old brake
fluid; always use fresh brake fluid from a sealed
container. Brake fluid will eat paint so do
not get it on your vehicles finish. If you do,
wash it off (brake fluid is water soluble) with
plenty of water.
- Using a lug wrench, crack the wheel lugs
loose one or two turns. Do not remove them completely.
- Jack one side of the vehicle up and support
it with a jack stand. Do the same for the opposite
side.
- Remove the lugs and take the wheels off.
- To remove the brake drums:
Rear Wheel Drive:
- Remove brake drum. Look at the wheel studs
for a round clip. If they are there, use a wire
cutters or other suitable tool to remove them.
You don't have to worry about breaking or losing
them. They are there to keep the brake drum
from falling off while on the assembly line.
They serve no purpose now. If brake lining is
dragging on brake drum, back off brake adjustment
by rotating adjustment screw. If brake drum
is rusted or corroded to axle flange and cannot
be removed readily, apply some rust penetrent
and lightly tap axle flange to drum mounting
surface with a suitable hammer.
Front Wheel Drive:
- Remove bearing cap and wheel bearings. Slide
drum off, backing off the adjustment if necessary.
Some bearings are one-piece bearings in which
case you just slide the drum off.
Any time the brake drums are removed for brake
service, the braking surface diameter should be
checked with a suitable brake drum micrometer
at several points to determine if they are within
the safe oversize limit stamped on the brake drum
outer surface. If the braking surface diameter
exceeds specifications, the drum must be replaced.
If the braking surface diameter is within specifications,
drums should be cleaned and inspected for cracks,
scores, deep grooves, taper, out of round and
heat spotting. If drums are cracked or heat spotted,
they must be replaced.
Minor scores should be removed with sandpaper.
Grooves and large scores can only be removed by
machining with special equipment, as long as the
braking surface is within specifications stamped
on brake drum outer surface. Any brake drum sufficiently
out of round to cause vehicle vibration or noise
while braking or showing taper should also be
machined, removing only enough stock to true up
the brake drum.
After a brake drum is machined, wipe the braking
surface diameter with a denatured alcohol soaked
cloth. If one brake drum is machined, the other
should also be machined to the same diameter to
maintain equal braking forces. I would recommend
that the drums be resurfaced whenever you replace
the shoes. If you do not plan on resurfacing the
drums, mark a wheel stud and put a matching mark
on the drum so you can reinstall it in the same
position it came off. Also mark them left and
right.
Type 1:
- Using brake spring pliers or equivalent,
remove primary and secondary shoe return springs.
- Remove automatic adjuster cable from anchor
plate and unhook from adjuster lever.
- Remove adjuster cable, overload spring, cable
guide and anchor plate.
- Unhook adjuster lever spring from lever and
remove spring and lever.
- Remove shoe-to-shoe spring from secondary
shoe web, then the primary shoe.
- Spread shoes apart and remove parking brake
strut and spring.
- Using suitable tool, remove shoe retainers,
then the springs and nails.
- Disconnect parking brake cable from lever
and remove brake shoes.
- Remove parking brake lever from secondary
shoe.
- Clean dirt from brake drum, backing plate
and all other components.
NOTE: In many cases the primary
shoe material is longer than the secondary shoe
material. The longer shoe always goes towards
the rear of the car and the short shoe towards
the front.
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